Tag: 2011

Brugge Chocolate Festival

The weekend of November 11-13 was the Brugge Chocolate Festival. Belgium is known for its chocolate, so it was imperative we see the latest trends in chocolate! On the way, we stopped by Wuppertal to ride the rails suspended over town and river. It was a unique experience, and economical to build mostly over a river than plow through the city streets.

Wuppertal Rail.

We stayed at a cute hotel in the historic Brugge center and attended the chocolate festival located in the Bell Tower the next day. Honestly, while we saw some fantastic chocolate artwork, it was just a series of chocolate stalls. We wandered the streets of historic Brugge afterward and found many fantastic chocolate shops sprinkled throughout the area. It’s a beautiful location with the canal circling it like a mote.

Brugge historic center.Brugge buildings.Brugge canal.

Nearby was also a flea market we spent some time wandering through. Overall Brugge is a pleasant place to visit and just take it all in. And it’s a great place for chocolate lovers, with or without a festival.

A Transylvanian Halloween

A friend and I took a trip to Romania to celebrate a “vampiric” Halloween. My first guided tour, it took a while to get used to being stuck on a bus. But the tour guide and bus driver were amazing, and in the end I learned a great deal. Most of the first day was spent traveling from Bucharest to Brasov.

On the way, we found out a few things. Romania is a very rich land (in resources and potential), but it is still recovering from a Communist regime. Buildings are decrepit, in disrepair or unfinished. Trials continue to hold back the original owners from reclaiming them as current tenants fight to keep their communist-era apartments. Also during that era farmers were forced to urbanize and had to leave behind their family pets to live in small city apartments. The stray dog crisis reached a climax in the 90s. Fortunately, from what we saw, the dogs are healthy and well behaved. In another decade or so much of Romania will resemble much of western Europe with pedestrian streets of shopping and a blend of history, culture, and modern design. Romanians are also very friendly and can speak English and several other more common European languages.

Romanian countryside.

We stopped at Sinaia along the way to see the Peles Palace, the summer residence of the first Romanian king.

Peles minor.Peles major.

Day 2: Brasov, Bran Castle, and The Impaler’s Birthplace

We started Halloween Day by walking around Brasov, seeing the Black Church, town square, and the orthodox church (Adormirea Maicii Domnului) there. We bought silly hats and had molten chocolate cakes, a great way to start off the day. Boarding the bus, it was off to Bran Castle. Along the way we were told the castle has nothing to do with Vlad Dracula, which was disappointing, but rather was a random selection by Bram Stoker for his gothic book Dracula.

City square.

Despite its lack of connection to the real Dracula, I really liked Bran Castle. At the entrance are many little shopping stalls manned by old ladies knitting, and the castle itself is remarkable. It was a summer residence for the royal family and is labyrinthine (at least it felt that way). It is set atop its own short hill and commands some lovely views. The weather was beautiful as well, couldn’t have asked for better!

Bran Castle.Bran Castle.Bran Castle.

I had a quick lunch of green bean soup and my colleague had a traditional meat and potatoes menu item that looked delicious. Then back on the bus for the trip to Sighisoara, the birth place of Vlad the Impaler. We arrived with just enough light to walk around the UNESCO site, a medieval walled fortress in which Vlad’s birth house still stands and includes lots of guild towers, a clock tower, and buildings from the original fortification.

Church.Clock Tower.

Our hotel was a quick walk down the cobbled street to the Hotel BinderBubi… a surprisingly 5 star hotel with an awesome name. Everyone donned their Halloween costumes (I was a giraffe), then we walked back up to Vlad’s house for another four course meal. I have learned that sheep cheese is too strong for me, and Romanian cold cut meats too fatty. It was a fun experience though, and we had good company. “Dracula” came by for a quick visit, then we departed for a late romp around the medieval church with its tombstones that overlooked the city. The tour set up a Halloween party in the hotel’s cellar, but my friend and I were too tired to stay long.

Lobby interior.Romanian food.Tombstone and devil.

It was a good day to celebrate Halloween, although I wish we could have seen Vlad Dracula’s actual castle now.

Day 3: Sibiu

After a big breakfast (all the hotels had great breakfast buffets), we piled back in the bus for our third major city of the “Seven Castles,” or Siebenbürgens; Sibiu. The seven cities is what made up Transylvania, a name given by the Germans. We walked past another guild tower (many and many of these in the medieval areas we visited) and city wall before we walked down one of the main pedestrian shopping streets. At the end of that is the Goldsmith’s Square, one of the largest plazas in Europe. Our tour guide pointed out the gothic “eyes” that watched you – small windows in the building roofs that really do look like eyes – and the circular structures dotting the ground that were discovered to once be cereal granaries to feed the animals once sold in the plaza.

Guild tower.Big square.

We had an hour and a half to wander around the shopping area, big square, and the adjoining Small Square. I had ice cream, which was pretty tasty. I still liked the ice cream in Rome the most though. The drive back to Bucharest is a long one from Sibiu, so we pulled over at a monastery along the Olt River for a break and some beautiful scenery with the autumn tree-lined hills on the other riverbank.

Olt River.

Bucharest, however, was scary! The cars and traffic were incredible, and I really appreciate how awesome our bus driver was at navigating. We saw a bit of the town at night as we made our way to the hotel in the center, but it took us longer than we had hoped so only had 15 minutes to get into our rooms and back to the bus to go to dinner.

We were taken to a restaurant called The Seagull, which served another four course meal (with the infamous pickled vegetables) and included live folklore performances with dancers and musicians. The music was fast paced and entertaining featuring violins, bass, dulcimer, and pan flutist. Thoroughly stuffed, we made it back to the hotel and passed out.

Day 4: Bucharest

The last hotel behind us, our tour guide gave us a whirlwind tour of the city, also known as “little Paris” for its attempts to replicate the French city. It features an Arc de Triomphe and a “Champs Elysees” style road with 41 fountains. Bucharest also has the second largest building in the world, the Palace of Parliament (third largest in volume). Originally designed by the communist leader Ceausescu, the new Romanian government determined it would be more expensive to destroy it than to finish it. We went on a 40 minute tour of it, and at the end found out we had seen 4% of the still unfinished building. It is completely made with Romanian materials and resources and sports a utility bill of 5 million euros (or was it Lei?) a year. Yikes!

Palace of Parliament.

The last destination was the Village Museum, an outdoor area with over 80 buildings that represented many ages of Romanian’s history. Afterwards, my colleague and I took a ten minute walk down the street for a late lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe. With a little time left before the drive back to the airport, we stopped at a covered shopping area with stalls stacked on top of each other. In the end we didn’t buy anything, but when they saw us, they added an additional zero to anything we were interested in (even though the price was clearly labeled). Ah, opportunists.

Romanian house.Restaurant interior.

Romania turned out to be an enlightening and fun trip. We ate too much and didn’t get to see the “real” Draculesti castle (believed to be Poenari Castle, which was nearly on the way!), but we learned a lot and saw enough to make it worth it!

Karlovy Vary: Part 3

Day 5

After another five hours in the car, we arrived in Karlovy Vary, or Karlsbad, a Czech (and a few times in history, German) spa resort town. Lovely! Beautiful buildings (all spa hotels), and a cute downtown shopping area flanking a river, we stayed right in the heart of it in the nicest hotel we had for the trip. Once we figured everything out at the hotel and got the right currency (not on the euro), we walked across the street (literally fifty feet out the hotel door) to the spa for a three hour treatment including wading in a mineral water pool, massages, mist inhalation treatment, and an oxygen treatment (I am in the midst of an ongoing bronchial infection, and Herr was hoping these treatments would help). An interesting experience with plenty of Russians and unlimited tea.


Herr and his friend went out that evening after a tasty dinner at the hotel while I stayed back to take a third attempt at my homework (*le sigh*). I didn’t last long before I passed out, and Herr came back a few hours later slightly disappointed, having found the town’s train station was a modern design not pleasing to the eye. Lucky for him though, he saw the city at night.

Day 6

The hotel let us keep our prime parking spot after we checked out, so we didn’t waste time in exploring. We hadn’t realized this at first, but the town really does have a lot of springs; so many that the city capped several of them making them “everlasting” spigots of nasty spring water, free drinking for anyone who can tolerate spring water. 😛 Our first stop was to Diana Tower for a commanding view of the area. We took the first funicular rail of the day and were the only ones in the tower. A nice way to start off the day. The town was still waking up when we came back down, so we made our way slowly toward a Russian Orthodox church with shiny gold-colored onion domes and all.

Spa hotel.Orthodox church.

The road looped back to the river, where we stopped in several shops. Earlier I found what I was told later to be a “spa wafer” (I had one about 10-12 inches round), so I was determined to pick up a box (of smaller ones!) for later. We finally figured out what the little porcelain “pitchers” were too; the town is littered with stands and stores selling “pitcher”-like items, but really they have a long drinking spout (like a built in straw I suppose) with a hole on the top. You use these to fill up with spring water at the various heated springs along the walk! Like I said, the water is not terribly pleasant, but it was worth trying! I haven’t seen “spring-drinking” activities anywhere else yet. 😉


Piled in the car again and back for Germany, we didn’t quite make it in time to stop by Ulm Muenster (although we did a lot of walking already). Herr and his friend walked around Speyer the next day then went off to Paris the day after. I had a lot of work to catch up with, but aside from missing the train back to Germany, they seemed to have a good time.

Alpine Mediterranean Loop: Part 2

Day 3

We checked out of the hotel in the morning and paid one more visit to the Marseille harbor to see the St. Jean fort (under construction, so just a walk by), then to the Cathedral. Along the way we stopped by a quaint French cafe for breakfast that was just right. The Cathedral also sported the striped stone building construction, and inside was quite lovely. I swung by a candy shop on the way back to the car (it couldn’t be helped), and then we hit the road for Monaco.


The scenery was magnificent! I had not realized that Monaco is its own country because it’s a virtually impenetrable piece of France literally a part of the mountains along the Azure Coast. We drove through a long downward-winding tunnel and roadway catching snippets of incredible scenery as we entered Monte Carlo. Monaco is the second smallest country in the world with Monte Carlo the only city (not even) fitting inside its mile length. After a considerable amount of time zig zagging through the expensive looking buildings, Herr finally found a parking ramp. We proceeded in the direction of the coast and left Herr’s friend at the pebble beach while we caught a taxi up to the Aquarium. The building was lovely, but it was very crowded and small; unique though, with a giant octopus hanging from the ceiling in the main foyer and a second museum with the recently added royal wedding outfits. Jean Jacques Cousteau was once the director, too, which might explain the giant squid/octopus thing.

Monaco.Sea horses.Clown fish.Lion fish.Fish.

When we finally squeezed out of the building we didn’t have enough time to tour the Prince’s Palace, so we hopped a mini tour train to get back to the beach. It stopped at the casino, one of the well-known landmarks if ever you heard of Monaco or Monte Carlo, then walked the waterfront stopping for ice cream a few times along the way. Herr and I waded in the Mediterranean for a short time (just as salty in this part of the Med) before we jumped back in the car, promptly got lost in Nice, then passed out when we finally made it to the hotel (or at least I did soon after we ate).

Day 4

The epic driving day. We started off at a decent hour following the main route parallel to the Azure Coast, which alternated between tunnels and bridges over large valleys with the sea on our right. It was a very scenic drive (aside from the tunnels), but I was finding it difficult to do homework (sad, I know, but it was due). I gave it up shortly after. Right before reaching Genoa, we turned north, got lost (and a bit frustrated) in Turin, then found the Alps. What a sight! Admittedly, I was bouncing around in the backseat with the camera, going from window to window trying to capture it all. Herr finally pulled over in the town of Hone, where we had some tasty Italian food (honestly, every time I get a calzone in Italy it’s nearly the size of my torso… it became my lunch the next day as well). We took some backroads for a while before jumping back on the route for the St. Bernard Tunnel, one of the longest road tunnels in the world. Cost a bit of money to get through as well, just FYI.

Hone fort.

Switzerland was one big traffic jam, then Germany was one big rain storm. We were quite grumpy by the time we returned having lost an hour driving “through” Turin, an hour in traffic, an hour driving slowly in sometimes torrential rains, and we did stop for lunch too… we had one night to recuperate before jumping back in the car the next morning for the Czech Republic.